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WANT to experience how you imagined Asia was supposed to be? Then you should be putting the little known and fascinating island

of BATAM (and Smiling Hill) high on your list.

PERHAPS you just want to get away from it all in the lush warmth of a very inexpensive, easily accessible tropical retreat? If so it’s all here with beautiful waterfront, marina and golf course resorts waiting to cater to your every whim with grace and style. Check: (www.nongsaresorts.com or www.batamholidays.com) and (www.paradisegolfandpleasure.co.uk).

But then there’s the REAL BATAM … a full-blown, low-cost PLAYGROUND right on the front doorstep of Singapore with a nightlife scene like the Thailand or Macau of yesteryear or the Singapore of half a century ago.

It’s raw, vibrant, sometimes exciting and with echoes of a frontier town yet at the same time captivating and welcoming. Facilities are surprisingly sophisticated and keep getting better year by year with new and established bars, nightclubs, discos, great local and excellent international food and many modern hotels from budget to luxury.

Best of all it is EXTRAORDINARILY INEXPENSIVE – food, accommodation, transport and most other costs are much lower than in places like Hong Kong, Singapore and even less than Thailand. They compare favourably with the Philippines.

Strangely Batam has remained very much below the radar for Western visitors who rarely think beyond Bali, Lombok and Jakarta when they consider Indonesia. Yet Singaporeans and Malaysians have been visiting en masse for years, especially for weekend getaways or nightlife tours.

The word is slowly spreading among Westerners, mainly through the many expatriate professionals and specialists who have taken up work contracts in what they thought would be a “hardship” post only to discover to their delight that the toughest part of the Batam experience is going home.

 

SMILING HILL is an ideal place from which to begin your exploration of Batam. It offers comfortable amenities, a beautiful pool complex, outstanding Western and local food and pleasant surroundings. You will be welcomed by attentive and smiling staff eager to make your stay memorable and hassle-free.

But Smiling Hill is much more than just another guesthouse or apartment complex. You will find yourself among friends – a fraternity of interesting, perceptive, informed and like-minded travellers and “old hand” resident expatriates who like to laugh and are always ready to share a raft of experiences, stories and advice.

The team at Smiling will give you up-to-date, practical and reliable information on the who what, when, where and why of the Batam entertainment, bar, food, touring and nightlife scene – what’s hot, what’s not, where to go and where not, what to pay, what to expect and how to handle the practicalities of a new and different culture.

If you are a newcomer then one of the Smiling team will accompany you on an introductory outing to both popular and lesser known venues. You instantly get an insider’s insights, avoid the wasted time and frustration of learning a new place by yourself from scratch and avoid the inevitable newbie pitfalls and rip-offs.

If you want to explore the island more widely (See Things to See and Do), check out the local food venues (Restaurants and Cheap Eats), play some golf (Golf) or even tour some of the fascinating nearby islands (Tours and Excursions) then the Smiling team will happily make the arrangements and organize inexpensive transport and tour guides.

 

Smiling Hill Tariffs

Room rates at Smiling Hill are a very modest SGD$55 to SGD$60 per night.

Rooms are of 3-star standard with air conditioning, cable television, room fridge, minibar, complimentary wireless Internet  and safety box.

There are discounted monthly room rates for long-stay guests ranging from $SGD800 (min 3 months).

Apartments are available for long-stay guests only. Tariffs range from SGD$975 per month plus outgoings (1-bedroom) to SGD$1,750 plus outgoings (luxury 2-bedroom, 2-bathroom).

Smiling Hill is the only accommodation or apartment complex in Batam owned, managed and operated by Westerners primarily for Westerners.

Visit Smiling Hill once and the odds are that you will be counting the days until you can come back again. You might never go home …!!!

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BATAM is most certainly NOT a Bali. If you really want sweeping beaches, swimming pools, volcanoes, paddy fields, water buffalos, resort hotels, Western bars, hordes of hawkers, and planeloads of other boisterous Western holiday makers then Batam is probably not for you. Pure tourism is not a major activity in Batam and represents only about 10 per cent of the island’s economy. But Batam, as a thriving working environment, has its own attractions:

1. VIBRANT, DIFFERENT AND INTERESTING

The ferry crossing takes less than an hour but Batam is so different to sanitised Singapore that it might just as well be light years away. Here you will find big new 21st Century landmark buildings surrounded by bustling, busy traditional Asia with its hawkers, street markets and food vendors.

· A little bit messy – yes.

· A little bit chaotic – yes. 

· A little bit smelly – in places, absolutely. 

But you’ll feel the raw energy and excitement in the air. If you are curious, interested and open minded then every day in Batam can be an adventure!

If you feel more comfortable with order and predictability then you can choose the international luxury resorts of Nongsa along the Northern beaches (www.nongsaresorts.com) and Waterfront City (www.harris-batam.com) (www.holidaycity.com/holiday-inn-batam/index.htm) Generally they are excellent and often they offer promotional rates or packages. (www.acacia-hotel.com/batam/index.html).

But unless you are an old Asia or Latin America hand then on the rest of Batam there’s a world like you probably have never experienced before. Open your eyes, open your heart, crank up your sense of humour and enjoy a new reality!

2. EASY AND CONVENIENT

Fly direct to Singapore. Breeze through Changi Airport with its hassle-free passenger systems and facilities.

Take a taxi to Harbour Front regional Ferry Terminal (about 20 minutes and about SGD$20). Take a clean, fast, modern Wavemaster (Berlian) ferry to Harbour Bay terminal in Batam (less than an hour and just SGD$48 for a return ticket) (Travelling to Batam). Obtain a Visa-on-Arrival (10 to 15 minutes in the queue and US$10 for 6 nights or US$25 for 29 nights) (Entry and Visa Requirements). Take a Port Taxi to Smiling Hill or your hotel (10 minutes and 40,000 rupiah – about SGD$6).

3. SO VERY INEXPENSIVE

If you have $US, $AUD, $SGD, GBP (Pounds Sterling) or EUR (Euros) you will be amazed at how far they will go on Batam.

When did you last enjoy a room in a luxury 4-star hotel for around $US55 to $60? Or pay as little as $US30 to $35 for an excellent 3-star plus room? Should you be on a tight budget there are quite adequate hotel rooms at around half these prices.

You can dine out on delicious seafoods at a pujasera (open air food court) for around US$10 or less per person, including beer and soft drinks. Buy a can of beer at a supermarket for about 90c, a large bottle (2 cans) for $US1.75 at a food market or pay $2.50 for a can at a Bule (Western) bar.

Have a haircut and shave with shoulder and scalp massage for around $US3.50. Or you can go the whole hog and luxuriate in a 45 minute “cream bath” hair conditioning treatment and scalp massage for around $US4.50. Or go for a very professional and relaxing one and a half hour traditional body massage for about US$12.

A taxi will cost about $US3 to most destinations in Nagoya and there is plenty of cheap shopping to be had in the department stores of Nagoya and Batam Centre, especially for clothing, bags and electricals.

NOTE: The bad news is that liquor and wines are heavily taxed in Batam and throughout all of Indonesia and are relatively expensive. This is a place where you certainly should pick up your favourite bottle from the duty free store before departing Singapore (1 bottle per person only).

4. WELCOMING AND SAFE

On Batam you will experience an easy and ready acceptance from the overwhelming majority of the local population. Some are shy and few speak very much if any English. But a smile and a hello usually will bring a beaming response from men, women and children alike. If you can manage a few words of Indonesian then the response will be even warmer.

Unlike some other more remote areas of Indonesia there is a friendly familiarity with Bules (foreigners) and recognition that they are important contributors to the local economy. If you have a problem typically you will find local people going out of their way to help and guide you, though there are times when you need to exercise your judgment and common sense.

For single male visitors – even older or shy men - it is very easy to meet and date local young women. The factory industries of Batam attract many, many girls from all over Indonesia in search of employment, adventure and a better life. Many are happy to go out with and welcome attention from Bule men, and not just the young and handsome.

These young women enjoy the access to hotels, restaurants and other venues they otherwise could not aspire to or afford. Some are hoping that that they might find a kind and caring husband who will give them a more comfortable and rewarding lifestyle in Indonesia or somewhere else. This very often happens.

And you can put thoughts of bombings, visitor warnings and worries about personal security aside (See Personal Safety and Security). Follow the common sense rules that apply for anyone visiting a foreign country and you are unlikely to experience any security or safety worries.

5. ABOVE ALL … BECAUSE IT’S FUN

The sights, the atmosphere, the bars, the karaokes, the discos, the dating scene, the balmy evenings in the food courts, the kalong restaurants on stilts over the water with live seafood direct from the cages below, the golf, the motorbike taxis, the shy and smiling locals, the routine “Hello Mister” from the local youngsters and the jokes and stories from the resident old Asia hands ...

If you are open to new experiences then all of this can come together to make your visit an absolute ball - experiences like you wouldn’t believe and laughs all the way. The odds are that you will be remembering and talking about these great moments for the rest of your life!!

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IF YOU are looking for a typical resort and sightseeing style of holiday then Batam probably is NOT for you. That isn’t to say that there aren’t excellent resorts and plenty of interesting things to do and see – there are. But Batam is not really a developed and organized tourist holiday destination. Rather it is perhaps better suited to:

Regional travellers

If you are planning a swing through South East Asia to places like Phuket, Bangkok, the Philippines, Cambodia or Vietnam then Batam in Indonesia can be an excellent addition to your itinerary. Batam is easy, interesting and cheap (huge savings compared with Singapore). You may be surprised at how little extra it will add to your airline fares from home and how little it will cost you to add extra travel using Asian-based budget airlines like Tiger , Air Asia or Jetstar (www.tigerairways.com) (www.airasia.com) (www.jetstar.com). Simply fly in to Changi Airport in Singapore and take the ferry across the Strait to Harbour Bay on Batam.

Short and weekend breaks

If you are living or working in the region (Singapore, Malaysia, Darwin, other locations in Indonesia) Batam represents is a good option to “get away from it all” for a few days and rest and recuperate at a resort (www.nongsaresorts.com) (www.batamholidays.com), play some golf (www.paradisegolfandpleasure.co.uk), check out the nightlife (Nightlife -Bars, Pubs, Discos), try some adventurous (and delicious) dining (Restaurants and Cheap Eats) do some laid-back sightseeing (Things to See and Do).

As an alternative to a Singapore stopover

If you are travelling Europe or the UK to the Pacific region or vice versa and need an R & R break in your journey then Batam is an ideal alternative, particularly if you want something new and different to the predictability and sterility of modern and expensive Singapore.

A base to explore South East Asia Indonesia

If you want to spend some serious time exploring the countries of the fascinating Asian region then it would be hard to find a more convenient, comfortable and inexpensive base than Smiling Hill on Batam. For the international explorer Batam offers all the conveniences of Singapore without the hassles and the expense – you can be in the Budget terminal at Changi Airport within two hours and from there take one of the frequent flights to the region’s most popular destinations. You can leave excess luggage in store at Smiling Hill and travel light and easy.

Similarly if you wish to take a look at more of Indonesia’s 17,500 islands (and there are fascinating things to see and do throughout the archipelago). There are some 60 domestic flights in and out of Batam’s Hang Nadim airport every day and, except during holiday peaks, the fares are very inexpensive. It is very easy to visit Jakarta, the famous Lake Toba in Sumatra, interesting cities like Bandung and Jogjakarta and famously beautiful locations like North Sulawesi and Bali.

Visa runs

If you have already relocated to another country in the region and need to make periodic excursions to renew your Visa status then you should have Batam on your list places for a quick visit. It’s cheap, easy and interesting, reachable through Singapore on the popular budget airlines and a refreshing alternative to places like Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Checking Retirement or Relocation options

If you are giving any thought to sooner or later retiring or relocating to Asia then you owe it to yourself to check out Indonesia and Batam and Smiling Hill in particular. With its proximity to Singapore and level of development Batam offers many advantages over other locations in the region and the team at Smiling Hill are able to provide accurate and comprehensive information on issues like property ownership, costs, Visa options and health services.

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BEING less than an hour from Singapore makes Batam very accessible from just about anywhere in the world. Singapore’s Changi is the major regional hub for South East Asia and is one of the most convenient and efficient airports in the world.

From Changi take a taxi to the Harbour Front Ferry Terminal (about 20 minutes, taxis metered, cost about $SGD20 or about $US14 - note that a surcharge applies for taxis in Singapore between 12 midnight and 6am).

Enter from the Harbour Front taxi drop-off, turn right and walk through the shopping centre (you will pass McDonalds on your left) until you reach the SECOND escalator to the upper floors. There will be money changers and Cruise Centre desks to your right and a Cocoa Trees chocolates outlet and the Xin Food Court to your left.

Take the escalator up one floor, turn left at the hawker stands and then left again (past MJG Bags and the Fruition outlet). Then turn left yet again up a short escalator to the ticketing desks for the Wavemaster (Berlian), Penguin or Batam Fast Ferry Services (all good). Buy a return ticket (about $SGD48 including taxes and charges and a fuel price levy). Wavemaster (Berlian) to Harbour Bay and Penguin to Batam Centre offer the highest service frequencies.

If you are planning to stay in a Nagoya Hotel or spend most of your time in and around the main business and entertainment district it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED that you take a Wavemaster ferry to HARBOUR BAY.

This newest Batam terminal opened late in 2006. It is less crowded and very efficient with excellent facilities, including a Visa on Arrivals desk. More importantly it is located at Batu Ampar right next door to the main commercial centre of Nagoya - just down the road from the Pacific Palace and Planet Holiday hotels.

The ferry journey to Harbour Bay is faster and you will save another 20 minutes or so on ground transport at the Batam end. There are services to HARBOUR BAY from Singapore about every hour from 7.55am until 9.45pm and from Batam to Singapore from 6.45am until 9.30pm (all local times) - Download Wavemaster-Berlian Timetable.

You must purchase a ticket at the Harbour Front ferry terminal in Singapore a minimum of 30 minutes before the departure time (this is strictly enforced at the ticketing desks).

The Singapore ticketing desk will give you a computer generated partially-completed Indonesian Immigration Entry Card along with your boarding pass and return ticket.

After purchasing your ticket you can book through your luggage to Batam at the desk one floor down on the second floor near the departure gate. You are entitled to check 20 kilos of luggage per passenger. Excess luggage will be charged.

Proceed through security and immigration and take the escalator down to the departure hall where there is plenty of seating and a duty free shop. While waiting for your ferry boarding call complete your Indonesian Immigration Entry Card.

The ferry crossing to Harbour Bay takes about 50 minutes to Harbour Bay while the crossing to Batam Centre takes about 70 minutes. After clearing Immigration at your destination terminal take a Port Taxi to your hotel (about FIVE minutes from Harbour Bay and 20 to 25 minutes from Batam Centre to Nagoya, the main hotel, business and entertainment district).

Taxi desks are located just outside the exit doors as you walk out of the arrivals halls. The Port taxis are air conditioned and clean and the drivers are usually courteous and helpful. Standard fares are charged to city locations – inquire at the taxi desk.

It is a good idea to have some Singapore or US dollars to cover Visa on Arrival costs (see below). Money changers and ATMs are available at the Batam Centre and Harbour Bay ferry terminals to obtain Indonesian rupiah. You will need rupiah to pay taxi fares.

With regular ferry services from Singapore to Batam from around 7.30am until 9.50pm it is possible to make same-day ferry crossings from flights arriving at Changi up to around 8pm (Singapore time). Later arrivals will require an overnight stay in Singapore before making the ferry crossing next day.

Likewise if you are planning to take an early flight out of Changi (before about 11am Singapore time) you will again need to overnight in Singapore.

The first ferry out of Batam is at 6.05am local time from Batam Centre or 6.45am from Harbour Bay (with Singapore an hour ahead that means departures at 7.05am or 7.45am Singapore time). Travel time, immigration clearances at Harbour Front Ferry Terminal in Singapore and a taxi to the airport will require up to two hours.

You will notice at Harbour Front in Singapore that there also are ferry services to SEKUPANG and WATERFRONT CITY in Batam. Unless you have a specific reason for going there, DO NOT take a ferry to Sekupang or Waterfront City – these are locations well away from the main town centres.

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TO ENTER Indonesia you need a passport valid for at LEAST SIX MONTHS from your date of entry. Travellers from MOST Western countries can obtain a single entry Visa on Arrival for 30 days ($US25) or seven days ($US10). You can check at:        

www.indonesianembassy.org.uk/consular_visa_type_arrival

There are exceptions where a Visa must be obtained through an Indonesian Embassy or Consulate prior to travel – if your country of origin is not included in the list provided through the above link then check as to visa procedures with your travel agent or nearest Indonesian Embassy.

NOTE: The seven-day Visa actually entitles you to a stay of only SIX nights and the 30-day visa to 29 nights.

If purchasing a Visa on Arrival try to ensure you have US currency or SGD as rupiah are not accepted. You may be asked to show you have a return ticket to your country of embarkation (Singapore), though this is unlikely.

Visitors from ASEAN countries which have reciprocal arrangements with Indonesia are issued a FREE 30-day (29 night) tourist Visa on arrival.

You can legally and readily extend a single entry visitor or business Visa from Batam by making a visit to Singapore and then re-entering Batam. If you do this often or over an extended period, however, you may be quizzed by Immigration officials about whether you are working illegally in Indonesia or asked to demonstrate your means of support.

If you are intending to do business or explore business opportunities in any way during your visit then be sure to tick the BUSINESS box (not the Visiting Friends or Relatives or the Tourist box) on your Immigration entry card. This will mean you will be granted by default a Single Entry Business Visa.

If you are intending to undertake training, attend a conference or work in Batam then different visa rules apply and you will incur higher fees. Visa rules and regulations in Indonesia are notorious for changes and for shifts in interpretation. It is EXTREMELY difficult to obtain accurate written information or guidelines from official sources or government websites.

You may be able to obtain information from an Indonesian embassy or consulate in your country of origin, but you may be best served by contacting a reputable specialist in business investment consultancy based in Indonesia. A recommended consultancy is Okusi Associates (okusi.net) who have offices in Jakarta, Bali and Batam. The principal is an Australian who speaks fluent Indonesia and has some 15 years experience in advising small and large foreign investors establishing or operating ventures in Indonesia.

Usually bigger or established companies will have arrangements in place through their own Human Resources staff or local specialist agents to handle Visa needs for visiting consultants or newly contracted foreign employees.

If you overstay your Visa you will be fined at the rate of US$20 a day. Overstaying is viewed seriously by the Indonesian authorities and a prolonged overstay may result in imprisonment and/or deportation and blacklisting, meaning you may be refused future entry to Indonesia for up to two years.

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BATAM enjoys a tropical climate all year round with temperatures ranging from an average minimum of 25 degrees to an average maximum of 34 degrees Celsius (77 to 95 Fahrenheit). Humidity ranges from 73% to 96%.

The annual average rainfall is 2,600 mm (about 105 inches) with the wet season extending from November to April/May and the dry season from June to October. The dry and wet season descriptions are relative – it still rains between June and October though not so frequently. The most concentrated rains tend to fall during November/ December and around March/April. Check the weather radar and satellite photos NOW at:

www.weather.gov.sg/wip/c/portal/layout?p_l_id=PUB.1023.5

For the Batam climate you need light clothing and will not need coats. Many visiting Western men wear shorts and this is generally acceptable (See Do’s and Don’ts in Indonesia).

Western visitors, particularly first timers, may find it difficult to sleep in the warm temperatures in periods of high humidity unless they have air conditioning.

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THE ELECTRICITY supply in Batam is 240 volts with bulky three-pin power plugs in the British style. You will need a transformer if you wish to operate 120 volt appliances. Most hotels have connection adaptors available to accept plugs widely used in other countries or you can readily purchase them very cheaply at Batam electrical or department stores (from about US$2).

 

IF YOU are visiting a foreign country with a different culture your hosts are entitled to expect that you will respect their social rules, conventions and customs.

Because it is a melting pot of people from elsewhere in Indonesia or overseas and there is a familiarity with visiting foreigners, Batam has a relatively relaxed and accepting social environment. But it still is important to be aware and to try to do the right thing.

Language differences alone can be enough to lead to innocent misunderstandings. This makes it even more important to avoid needlessly creating ill feeling and soured relationships by flouting accepted codes of conduct through ignorance or thoughtlessness.

Etiquette and behaviour

In Indonesia it normally is advisable to dress modestly, particularly for women. Hoever,dress conventions in Batam are more relaxed.

It is accepted that visiting Bule (Western) men often will wear short pants and t-shirts suited to the hot climate. However, when visiting Government offices or other official premises or functions shorts may be deemed as a sign of disrespect and are NOT acceptable. Indonesian men will rarely be seen wearing shorts outside their home.

Many Indonesian women routinely wear the Muslim jilbab head covering. Against this, unlike many other regions of Indonesia, Western style low-cut jeans with short tops and exposed midriffs are now standard dress for many young local women in Batam. It is not entirely uncommon to see some girls wearing shorts in public.

However, it is still rare for Indonesian women to wear brief swimming costumes, regardless of how attractive they may be. Most would be exceedingly malu (shy or embarrassed) to even buy such a costume let alone wear it in public.

Besides modesty in dress, modesty in behaviour also is widely respected. Excessive displays of anger, affection, laughter, frustration or sadness are not considered favourably. Standing in an aggressive manner (e.g. with hands on hips or pointing directly at someone with your index finger) should be avoided.

Again, Batam is a little more relaxed and it is relatively common to see couples (locals and visitors) displaying affection publicly by holding hands or perhaps even with a quick hug. But best to keep displays of affection private.

It also is important not to embarrass people, particularly in front of their subordinates, even in jest. Indonesians are not accustomed to such behaviour and have great difficulty in accepting the loss of face it is considered to cause.

The great tradition of ironic humour or “stirring” that is a part of the British and Australasian psyche will go down like a lead balloon with Indonesian locals who are likely to take any joking comment literally and possibly be quite upset.

Indonesians strongly favour consensus and will try to avoid a debate or an open show of disagreement. If there is a choice to be made, even on a small issue like eating out, Indonesians, particularly Javanese, will tend to talk around the issue until common ground can be found, for example on the food type and how far they are prepared to travel. At this point a consensus decisions reached and no one has really lost face during the process.

Avoid trying to force a decision or a direct answer as this can be quite uncomfortable for the person you are dealing with, even Indonesian partners. Ask some general or hypothetical questions and listen to the feedback for an indication of true wishes.

A common response will be “Up to you” which often can be taken by Westerners as acceptance or compliance. But it is more likely to mean disagreement and that the person is “shy” or unwilling to express a contrary opinion for fear of upsetting you, particularly if your view seems to be strongly held.

If you suspect this is so then try to talk further by putting various options and asking for a reaction until you get a firm agreement. For example, if you are engaging a taxi or negotiating a purchase, it’s often best to start by suggesting an appropriate fare or price rather that asking directly for a price. Continue until you establish acceptance of an agreed rate.

Remember that once you enter into a bargaining process and reach a consensus it is considered impolite and a show of bad faith if you then do not conclude the transaction. Remember too that bargaining is not done in the big shops with marked prices (except for big ticket items like electronics or furniture). Bargaining also is unacceptable in places like restaurants.

Indonesians usually eat with their hands or with a fork and a spoon, rather than a knife and fork (as knives are traditionally considered to be weapons and therefore not appropriate to use in the company of relatives and friends). You will be provided with a knife (pisau) as part of your table setting in the better hotels but you may have to ask for one if you really need it in a local restaurant.

In Muslim cultures the left hand is generally considered to be unclean. You should avoid touching people, eating or passing food or other items, including money, with the left hand.

When eating or drinking with Indonesians, always wait, even after the food or drink has been served, until the host has invited you to eat or drink. Even then it is best to wait until the host has begun to eat or drink.

Indonesian Muslims normally will not eat pork or any other derivatives of pigs. Some Muslim Indonesians may take alcohol. However, if offering alcoholic drinks it is best to ensure non-alcoholic alternatives also are provided.

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FRIDAY is an important day for religious observances in largely Muslim Indonesia and Government offices and many factories and industrial operations close for an extended period from 11.30am to allow staff to attend the Masjid (Mosque) for prayers.

Technically Government offices reopen for business until 4pm but in general it is probably not worth trying to do business with government agencies on Friday afternoons. Some Government and semi-government offices open on Saturday mornings, but most are closed. All are closed on Sundays.

Staff from most factories and industries do not return to work after Friday prayers, effectively taking a half day holiday. However, these enterprises typically work a full day on Saturdays and are closed on Sundays.

Banks remain open with a skeleton staff of non-Muslims during Friday prayers and typically close at the normal time of 3pm. Banks are closed on Saturdays and Sundays.

Shops and shopping centres do not close for prayers and generally trade seven days a week from 10am until late. Most shops close at 4pm on Sundays and a handful trade only until 12 noon.

There are typically some 14 or more other significant public holidays each year throughout Indonesia. You can check coming holiday dates through this link:

www.worldtravelguide.net/country/122/public_holidays/South-East-Asia/Indonesia.

Government offices, banks, factories, bars and entertainment venues are all required to close (there are some exemptions for restaurants). These closure requirements are widely enforced.

For bars and entertainment venues the closures commence from 6pm (sundown) the evening BEFORE the holiday with venues re-opening from 6pm on the night of the actual holiday.

One of the most significant holidays is August 17, the anniversary of Indonesia’s declaration of independence in 1945, which sparked a four-year struggle against the Dutch. This is typically a day of great celebration throughout Indonesia (www.expat.or.id/info/aug17th).

For the history go to:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indonesian_Declaration_of_Independence

Despite its Muslim majority, Indonesia considers itself a multi-ethnic, multi-cultural and multi-religious society and this is reflected in official holidays marking important Christian, Buddhist and Hindu festivals and the Chinese New Year.

Ramadhan is the main Muslim observance and falls in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. Islam uses a lunar calendar with each month beginning with the sighting of the new moon. Because the lunar calendar is about 11 days shorter than the solar calendar used elsewhere, Islamic holidays "move" each year. In 2009 Ramadhan begins at sundown on August 22.

During the 28 days of the fasting month of Ramadhan Indonesian Muslims are obliged to fast from dawn until dusk. Most people and activities slow during this period and bars and entertainment venues generally are required to close during the day, opening only for limited hours in the late evening (typically after 9.30pm). There also are additional days prescribed during Ramadhan by local religious authorities (typically six to eight days, sometimes more) when entertainment venues must close.

Many restaurants continue to operate for non-Muslims and others exempt from fasting but operate behind drawn curtains as a mark of respect to the religious festival.

Food courts and restaurants actually become very busy during Ramadhan selling food and beverages (including beer) to people breaking their fast after sundown. Many extra food stalls are set up in the streets to sell specially prepared food and treats for people breaking their fasts. The streets take on something of a crowded carnival atmosphere during the early evening.

Ramadhan ends with Eid ul-Fitr (the Arabic term translates as the festival of breaking the fast and is pronounced Idil Fitri). It also is commonly referred to as Hari Raya (Indonesian for day of celebration). This is the biggest family and community celebration of the year in Indonesia and continues for at least two days. It can be compared with Christmas in Western countries. There are special religious ceremonies, special clothes, special foods, the forgiveness of partners, friends, family (and enemies) and the giving of gifts, usually small sums of cash (duit raya) to children and the poor.

There is also a huge migration of Muslims from the big metropolitan cities, including Batam, to rural areas throughout the archipelago. This is known as balik kampong or pulang kampong — literally going back to home towns or villages to celebrate Eid with parents and extended family. This means transport services throughout Indonesia can be very crowded, difficult and expensive over this period. For more go to:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eid_ul-Fitr - scroll down to South East Asia.

It is best to AVOID visiting Indonesia or Batam for pleasure or business during Ramadhan. It is a good idea also to check on the impact of other holidays like Christmas and the Chinese New Year when arranging your itinerary. Ramadhan dates in coming years can be checked here –

www.holidays.net/ramadan/dates - ignore the message about the site not existing and click on “When is Ramadhan” in the menu to the left.

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IT IS a big advantage for visitors to be able to speak a little Indonesian, but it is by no means essential. Many ex-pats have lived permanently in Batam for a period of years speaking English only. There is usually someone in most official offices or big stores who speaks at least basic English and some who speak it very well. Most staff at all the big hotels speak some English. If you run into a situation where you cannot be understood there is usually someone nearby who speaks English who will cheerfully help you out with translations.

It can be helpful to carry a phrase book or an electronic dictionary – printed or inexpensive electronic dictionaries can readily be bought at major bookstores and office supply outlets in Batam. You can also buy electronic dictionary software that be added to many brands of hand phone.

Many drivers and many of the staff and girls who work in bars and entertainment venues speak some basic English, and some are quite fluent, particularly those who have lived and worked in Batam for some time. They often will be a little shy for fear of making mistakes but in private you usually will be able to converse to some degree. Again the phrase book or dictionary can help greatly and this form of personal communication can become fun.

Remember to try to use the words you pick up and not be shy about making mistakes. The locals will laugh with you and correct you but most of all they will appreciate the fact that you are making the effort. Keep in mind also that most Indonesians undertake some English studies at high school and many really want to learn to speak English. They will be grateful for any help you can provide them.

A highly recommended and fun site where you can get started on learning some Indonesian words and phrases and how to use them is to be found at: freenet-homepage.de/indonesian/index.html (Flirting in Indonesian).

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THE NIGHTLIFE scene on Batam consists of bars, nightclubs, karaokes and discotheques. Click for map of main Nagoya Entertainment District.

Bars

The bars in Batam are mainly watering holes with occasional live music but more likely with DJ music and cable TV showing the sports channels. They are quite unlike the raunchy nightlife bars of Thailand or the Philippines. There are some 25 bars in and around Nagoya, the main Batam entertainment district. More are opening at Harbour Bay (2009). Most target ex-pats and visitors (Asian and Western) but some also attract local patronage. Many are popular spots for meeting local working ladies but others discourage them. Batam Bars generally do not have dancers on stage like their counterparts elsewhere in Asia though there are a couple of exceptions with some relatively tame pole dancing.

Nightclubs

These are mainly to be found in the bigger quality hotels usually with live bands and performers (some good, some ordinary and ALL loud). The music typically starts from around 10pm and closing time usually is in the wee small hours. Drinks are relatively expensive (often up there with what you would pay at home) and attract taxes and service charges (more than 20%). But usually there is no cover charge. Most attract young and trendy locals as well as visitors, especially from Singapore, and often a few senior Westerners desperately trying to blend in. Some young local ladies will welcome your approach and be happy to share a drink and some time or even the rest of the evening with you.

Karaokes

These are very much an Asian thing and are popular with visiting Singaporeans and Malaysians and well-off Indonesian locals. They can be fun and if you happen to enjoy a little off-key warbling then a couple hours in a Karaoke in the afternoon or evening can be a hoot. There are probably more than 60 karaokes around Batam. Some are well appointed with billiard tables and well stocked bars but others can be very basic. The karaokes, along with some massage parlours, are mainly venues for meeting up with working girls who will join you for drinks or more intimate short time or overnight liaisons. The girls are often attractive but very few speak English. The girls will appreciate you much more if you take them overnight and treat them to time in the comfort of your hotel and perhaps a drink and a meal at a pujasera (food court), bar or restaurant or from room service (in other words make it a DATE and treat her like a lady). The bar fine or “booking fee” is typically about Rp400k to Rp500k. The staff and management at your hotel will be accustomed to guests bringing back visitors and will not give you a second glance or ask for any extra room payment. Be careful about having expensive (and not very good) snacks pushed on you at karaokes – always ask the price. Drink prices are usually higher than at regular bars and attract service charges and taxes. Most of the bigger hotels have karaoke bars, usually with expensive KTV private rooms. These are popular with well heeled locals or Asian visitors for business or private entertaining. The hotel establishments typically charge much higher prices for drinks and food. They are not popular with Westerners.

Discos

Indonesian discos are something else – very, very dark; very, very LOUD (probably comparable with the flight deck of the USS Enterprise during flight operations) and often very crowded. But for all that they are an essential experience, if only once in your life. In essence Indonesian discos typically are dark places where guys go to meet girls or in the case of Batam where the girls go in the hope suitable guys may turn up. Dancing is generally minimal, the very limited lighting is wild and the ear pounding sound systems mean conversation is impossible. Here there can be wall to wall people swaying to a dance beat and hunting for a date, especially on “ladies nights” (usually Tuesdays or Thursdays) when girls are admitted free. Male Western visitors often are their preferred species. There are cover charges but they are sometimes waived for Western visitors. Keep an eye on the bar prices as they typically are over the top and may well vary from drink to drink, especially for Westerners. Even more so if a girl persuades you to buy her a drink (she usually goes for the top of the range mixes as she often will receive a commission - possibly she will be drinking tea poured from a Johnny Walker Black Label bottle).

Be careful of your valuables in the crowds as discos are a favourite haunt of expert pickpockets. Be a little careful of the company you choose too – that gorgeous and oh so willing “lady” who approaches you may have much more to “her” than you expect, especially around the nether regions. It is probably a good idea to ask any lady who takes your eye to step outside for moment before consummating any dealings. There you can actually see what you are getting into, you can both hear the negotiations and you also can find out whether your potential intended can understand a single word you are saying. 

There typically is no action at the discos until around 11pm and they rage through until about 4 or 5 in the morning though the crowds may have thinned after about 2 am. The discos really are somewhere to go if you are unattached and want to meet women – in fact the odds are that if you stand by the bar for more than a minute or two you will have company (assuming you made it that far unattached). 

However, they are not a place where most Western visitors would want to spend too much time – they are noisy and expensive and not particularly pleasant after the first rush of blood at the sight of that seething mass. Even the girls you meet will sometimes seem relieved to have found someone to get them out of there. 

The discos also are a favourite haunt of Batam’s drug dealers (mainly ecstasy) – no matter what the circumstances DON’T!!! The quality is likely to be dubious and the consequences if arrested are horrendous (See Drugs Scene in Batam).

Be careful too when choosing a taxi outside a disco, especially if it is very late and you have had a few drinks. Go for a liveried legal taxi and avoid any unmarked dilapidated cars. If it is well into the night then you will be asked to pay a premium over normal day taxi rates. Don’t bargain too hard – recognise that the driver is offering an out-of-hours service and probably has made a payment to the establishment security team to be allowed to be there.

If you take home a girl from a Disco remember that all you know about her is what she chooses to tell you – take sensible precautions and secure your valuables (See Safety and Security Rules).

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Check today’s exchange rates at:

www.xe.com/ucc/

BE WARY of the friendly taxi driver or the smiling English speaking local who seemingly emerges from nowhere and is anxious to be your “friend” and help show you around during your Batam stay. They usually are nice guys with a great sense of humour and a quick mind. But be aware that many make their living or supplement their regular earnings by befriending and “helping” foreign visitors.

They will expect and happily accept your tips (perhaps even suggesting that a little more would be appreciated because of the dire circumstances faced by themselves or their family). But their main earnings come from the sometimes substantial commissions they earn by guiding you to particular hotels, restaurants, specialty shops and transport and personal services. It’s all legal, it can be fun and it can be very convenient. But you probably will have paid much more than you should have.

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THE LOCAL CURRENCY is the Indonesian Rupiah. Approximate exch-ange rates offered by local money changers as at June 2009 were:

· 1 GBP = Rp 17,000

· 1 $US = Rp 10,300

· 1 EUR = Rp 14,600

· 1 Aus$ = Rp 8,400

· 1 Sing$ = Rp 7,100

The easiest foreign currency to exchange in Batam is the Singapore dollar. The US dollar is widely accepted but you may have difficulties exchanging old, worn or small denomination notes – try to bring crisp new $100 bills. The British Pound and the Euro are less popular with money changers and you may encounter poor exchange rates. The Australian dollar can also be difficult and will not be accepted at some banks.

If your currency is Euros, Pounds or Australian dollars you may be better to change them to Singapore currency at the money changers located on the ground floor at the Harbour Front ferry terminal before departing from Singapore. You may also want to obtain enough Indonesian rupiah to pay taxi fares etc on arrival – changing SGD$50 or its equivalent will be sufficient. Make sure you include some small denomination notes (Rp 5,000, 10,000 & 20,000) for taxi fares and tips.

There are many money changer booths around the commercial districts of Batam where you can readily convert foreign currency like SNG$ or US$ at fair exchange rates.

But all of the major Indonesian banks of Batam (Lippo, BNI, BCA, Mandiri, Permata and others) have modern conveniently located ATM machines linked to the Maestro, Cirrus and Visa Plus international networks where you can readily withdraw funds from your debit card account at home or obtain advances against your credit cards. There are ATMs at the ferry arrivals terminals and in most of the main shopping centres. The ATMs are a much easier and safer option compared with carrying large amounts of cash.

Typically an ATM limits you to withdrawals of Rp1.5 million but some banks give Rp2 million or up to Rp3 million per transaction (Lippo Bank). You can immediately make additional withdrawals (up to whatever limit is imposed by your home bank), but you pay a transaction fee for each additional withdrawal. The ATM inter-bank exchange rate is usually favourable and this can offset the transaction costs. Most ATMs offer a choice of English or Indonesian instructions. Funds will usually be dispensed in note denominations of Rp50,000 or Rp100,000.

Avoid changing money at your hotel or in bars or nightclubs. You almost certainly will be ripped off on the exchange rate. You also will incur extra costs if you use Travellers Cheques, assuming you can actually find someone (other than a bank) to accept them. The advent of card technologies and ATM machines have made travellers cheques a cumbersome anachronism and they are best avoided.

Indonesian traders and service providers like cash. Expect to be charged a premium equivalent to the card service fee if you offer a credit card for all but major transactions, such as hotel bills.

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FIRST-TIME visitors to are often amazed at the number, size and quality of Batam’s hotels and the relatively low rates they offer. Including resorts, there are around 10,000 hotel rooms on Batam.

Four major new hotels opened in 2008 between them adding around 700 rooms to the accommodation stock. These included the Pacific Palace, the Amir, the i-hotel and the Golden View.

We consider the BEST VALUE accommodation in Batam for Western travellers is undoubtedly the Smiling Hill Guesthouse and Apartments (See description, pictures and tariffs). But then we are probably a little biased.

You can gain an idea of the extent, quality and costs of the accommodation available in Batam by clicking on some of the links below to 15 of the major hotels in and around Nagoya, the main business and entertainment district. There are also many, many more smaller hotels offering basic but clean accommodation at budget rates. You also may wish to check the links to major out-of-town resort hotels (See Nongsa Resorts and Beachs and Sekupang and Waterfront City).

 

HOTEL LINKS

www.panoramaregency.com

www.ihotelbatam.com

www.planetholidayhotel.com/

www.pacificpalacehotel.com

www.harbourbayamirhotel.com

www.grandmajesty.com

www.harmonigroup.biz/hotel

www.goodwayhotel-batam.com/

www.novotel.com/gb/hotel-1946-novotel-batam/index.shtml

www.vista-hotel.com

www.mercure.com/gb/hotel-6178-mercure-batam/index.shtml

www.hotelnagoyaplasa-batam.com

www.puri-garden.com

www.formosahotel.com

www.swiss-belhotel.com/properties/batam1/sbtm_home.html

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SPOIL YOURSELF

IF YOU are into relaxing and being pampered then Batam is the place. Indonesians seem to believe that the appropriate massage will overcome almost any ailment. First rate relaxing and therapeutic massage services are readily available.

Most massage centres have well trained staff and offer Traditional (Indonesian) or Thai massages and Reflexology (foot and leg massage). Many centres also of have spa pools.

Massages are very inexpensive – an hour of foot reflexology is about Rp50,000 (US$5), a one hour massage about Rp80,000 and a one-and-a-half hour massage about Rp120,000. If you are really into massage then you can try a one-hour “four hands” massage with two masseuses working on your body simultaneously.

There are many excellent massage centres in Batam. Among those highly recommended are the Sports Massage centre near the Goodway Hotel (sportmassagecentre.com) and the Relax massage near Lucky Plaza shopping centre.

All major hotels and resorts also have in-house or associated massage and treatment centres. Usually they are excellent but typically prices are very much higher.

After your massage you may want to go to a hair salon and try a “cream bath”. This seems to be a peculiarly Indonesian process often offered as an additional service following a haircut. Your hair will be washed and then you will be anointed with lotions followed by a vigorous and extended head massage. Then to the drier and finally another wash and styling.

It is a very relaxing and refreshing process and highly recommended. The cost is typically Rp35,000 to Rp45,000. Salons offering a cream bath also typically offer facials (for both MEN and women) plus manicure and, often, pedicure services.

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SHOPPING

THE BATAM shopping scene does not yet have the sophistication of a Jakarta or Singapore and the street scene can by rather messy. But the prices can be very inexpensive, a bit like the Singapore and Hong Kong in the “good old days” and more and more modern centres are opening.

Major new shopping centres (Nagoya Hill Mall, Mega Mall at Batam Centre, and BCS Mall at Penwin) opened over the three years to 2009. Work was advanced as at mid-2009 on a further major shopping centre at Harbour Bay.

Watch out for galleries, interior decorating shops and gift shops – you will probably find some excellent examples of arts and crafts at bargain prices. Paintings, wood carvings, pottery, etchings and intricately fashioned jewellery from most regions of Indonesia are available and the quality is excellent. You will also find beautiful examples of traditional and colourful Batik fabrics made up as shirts, blouses or scarves. And if you need another bag to take it all home there are plenty of cheap luggage shops too!

There are bargains to be had in light clothing, shoes, perfumes (often copies of international brands), leather goods, confectionaries and electronics (cameras, phones etc). Be cautious about bigger electronic appliances as you may have problems when departing through Singapore Customs. If you like coffee then be sure to take home a pack of the excellent Arabica blends from Sumatra – superb taste and aroma.

If you are in Batam long enough then you may want to check the local tailors to have shirts or pants made to measure. Be wary about suits – this kind of Western clothing is not commonly worn or made in Indonesia.

Keep an eye open for unusual bargains – for example you can have your eyes professionally tested and buy quality eye glasses at a huge saving compared with most Western countries. If you are required to take regular medication you may want to check over-the-counter prices from Batam’s “Apoteks”. There may be substantial savings on even the subsidized prices available to you at home.

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GOLF

BATAM OFFERS a selection of very good 18-hole golf courses of international standard. Most were established to attract enthusiasts from Singapore where the shortage of land simply does not permit the economic development of more sweeping fairways and greens. There is also a smaller 9-hole course at Nongsa (Tamarin Santana).

Many of the Batam courses are associated with resorts or residential developments and as well as catering for members most welcome visiting green fee players, particularly midweek. Some offer play-and-stay packages with plenty of pampering to go with the golf. Fees include golf carts (usually mandatory) and caddies. Many of the caddies are girls.

Smiling Hill can arrange golf excursions for guests and provide transport. The main 18-hole courses are listed below. For more information on the courses and specialist golf packages go to:

www.paradisegolfandpleasure.co.uk

The expatriate operator of this golf holidays service has built a solid reputation.

 

18-hole Golf Courses

Indah Puri Golf - Jalan Ir Sutami, Patam Lestari, Sekupang, Batam. Tel. +62 778 323 702 (www.indahpuri.com/)

SET IN luscious greenery and ringed by waters, the Indah Puri Golf course is quite spectacular. The course was designed by Ronald Fream and each of the 18 holes of the championship course offers its own special character. 

The course runs parallel to the beach, then dog legs around scenic lakes and bunkers. Spread over 80 hectares of manicured landscaping it provides golfers, both amateur and professional, with plenty of challenge.

The well appointed clubhouse has a spacious lounge overlooking the main lake and the rolling greenery of the 1st, 9th, and 18th holes. A pro-shop, terrace-cum-cafe, reading room and executive offices complete the upper level. On the lower level are the change rooms and facilities for club members and their guests.

Palm Springs Golf - Jalan Hang Lekiu, Nongsa Tel. +62 778 761 222 (www.palmsprings.com.sg)
 

PALM SPRINGS is one of Batam’s most popular courses with three nine-hole layouts – the Resort course, the Palm course and the Island course. You can choose your own combination of 18-holes from the three to make up one round of golf. Or you can simply play 27 holes at one go.

Sculpted fairways and gently sloping grassy depressions with breathtaking ocean views from the green are part of Palm Spring. The Palm Course incorporates a signature green on the waterfront and, from several holes, high views over natural forest and mangrove swamps.

The Resort course is over varied topography with hills rising steeply and strategic pin locations to heighten the challenge. The Island course gradually moves away from wide fairways to intricate hazards. Luxuriant with swaying palm trees and mangrove vegetation, the course is suited to beginners as well as the more skilled.

The Balinese-style luxury clubhouse boasts restaurants, function rooms, recreation rooms, sauna and steam baths and 12 private massage rooms for male and female golfers. There’s also an 18-bay driving range and a well stocked pro shop. 

Batam Hills - Jl. Diponegoro 24, Tanjung Uncang, Sekupang - Batam. Tel +62 778 322 828 (www.bukitdarmogolf.com/batamhills.asp)

BATAM HILLS is associated with the Acacia Batam, a three star resort nestled in the panoramic hills of Sekupang and surrounded by tropical forests. The resort features 88 deluxe rooms and four suites, swimming pool, Promenade Cafe, meeting rooms and the Pharaoh Pub

Batam Hills has devoted 80 hectares to its 18-hole championship golf course. Designed by Max Wexler, the course is built to meet the needs and expectations of demanding professional golfers as well as the enthusiastic novice.  Some of the more exciting holes include a double dog-leg across bunkers and water hazards and playing on an inclined fairway.

The newly renovated clubhouse provides panoramic views over the course has a picnic and barbecue area, Batam Hills also offer sauna & massage facilities, tennis courts, jungle/jogging treks and a swimming pool.

Southlinks Golf - Jalan Gajah Mada, Sei Ladi, Sekupang. Tel +62 778 323 837 (www.southlinksgolf.com)

SOUTHLINKS offers two courses in a resort setting complete with bungalows, condominiums clubhouse, restaurants and conference facilities. It overlooks the sea with natural streams transformed into lakes and ponds to blend in with the sculpted fairways embracing the hills.

Both courses have numerous holes located along the coastline to provide interest and challenge. The courses move from elevated ground towards the luxuriant fairways just below and then over hilltops and onto islands.  It’s a layout to ensure that the proficient or beginner golfer can expect to be challenged, stumped, teased, rewarded -- anything but bored.

Tering Bay Golf - Jalan Hang Lekiu, Nongsa, Batam. Tel +62 778 761 818 (golf-asia.com/indo/teringbay.html)

FORMER World Number 1 Greg Norman designed the Tering Bay course. It is a very beautiful and playable 18-hole par 72 course set amidst rolling hills, lakes and lush tropical greenery. The course is the centrepiece of the Tering Bay Golf and Country Club on a site of over 130 hectares looking over the waters of north Batam to Singapore.

The design brief was to ensure the Tering Bay would be a fair and enjoyable test for golfers of all levels as well as stern test for the professionals.In Greg Norman’s words …“Playing the Tering Bay Golf and Country Club will be a breathtaking experience for golfers of all abilities. I have designed some heroic, "go for it" shots across many of the water hazards. But in most places, I have also tried to en sure players may choose an easier approach to the green.”

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TOURS AND EXCURSIONS

The Smiling Hill team can help you arrange most of

the outings suggested below:

Barelang Highway Tour

THIS 88 kilometre highway commences near Batu Aji (Magic Rock) and with its six bridges links Batam Island to the nearby islands of Rempang and Galang (hence the acronym Barelang). The bridge project was undertaken during the 1990s on the initiative of Dr B J Habibie, then head of the Batam Industrial Development Authority (BIDA) and later to become Indonesia’s President (www.batam.com/content/view/16/29). The project was intended to open up the chain of islands for industrial and tourism development but the Asian financial crisis of 1997-98 intervened and the highway now provides a pleasant drive though small local vegetable and fruit farms, fish farms and denuded ridges and provides access to local Malayu kampongs and beaches (mappery.com/fullsize-name/Barelang-Bridge-Map).

Bridge 1, the biggest of the structures, opened in 1999. It has taken on iconic status in the region and is crowded with visitors and food vendors most Sundays and on every major holiday. It offers outstanding views over the extensive waterways and the nearby island kampongs where local people live in houses built on stilts over the water and largely follow a traditional fishing life-style. You can hire a traditional gondola-like traditional boat (powered by a small outboard motor) from the wharf below the bridge for about Rp75,000 an hour. The owner will take you for a close-up look at the kampongs and fishing activities from the water. You can land if you wish and you will be welcomed by the local people, especially the youngsters. Typically neither the boat owner nor the local people will speak any English.

There are excellent Kalong restaurants built out over the water at several locations just off the highway. These serve seafood taken from cages in the water beneath the restaurant and cooked while you enjoy a beer and wait. A recommended restaurant is to be found if you turn right and drive down to the water immediately after crossing Bridge 4. Go the second restaurant opposite the charcoal kilns (and while you are at it have a look at the kilns used by the local community to convert mangrove poles into charcoal to be sold to Batam’s barbecue food vendors).

It’s worth taking side trips off the main road to check out some of the many beaches. The Pantai Malayu just south of Bridge 4 offers an attractive setting with rudimentary toilet and other facilities and plenty of sand except at high tide. The local community will make a small charge for entry and the use of the facilities. The sunsets can be superb when viewed from the beach. A similar beach near the very end of the highway also is popular.

An interesting site to visit is the former Vietnam Refugee Camp on Galang (first turn on your left after crossing Bridge 5). For around 20 years from the 1970s more than 100,000 fleeing Vietnamese boat people used this as their temporary home while they awaited relocation to third countries. There are the remains of some of the boats, houses, dormitories, schools and churches plus the Quan An Tu monastery and temple built in 1984 and still maintained. There is also a small museum. The camp has been designated an historical site and is being maintained to a limited extent.

For a fun read, mainly about diving but touching on Barelang, the Vietnamese Refugee Village and local officialdom, go to:

www.offbeattravel.com/batam.html

Nongsa Resorts and Beaches

TAKE the airport road north of Batam to Batu Besar (Big Rock). You may want to take a quick drive through the Hang Nadim Airport on the way – if you are new to Batam you will be impressed by the size and extent of this modern regional airport.

As you enter Batu Besar take the first turn to the right and follow the road past the local health centre all the way to the water. Here extending out over the bay you will find the Rezeki Kalong Restaurant (about Kalong restaurants). This is a highly recommended place to sample the local seafood in a great setting. Take a drive around the foreshore of the bay south of the restaurant to see a typical seaside kampong nestled amongst the coconut palms and bananas.

Return to the main road and continue past the security post to the Turi Beach  and Nongsa Point Marina resorts:

(www.turibeach.com)  (www.nongsapointmarina.com)

These overlook the busy shipping lanes of the Singapore Strait towards Malaysia. Both resorts, particularly the Balinese style Turi Beach, are well worth exploring and casual visitors are welcome. For a modest fee you can use the pool and other facilities as a day visitor and you can patronize the restaurants and bars. Make sure you walk down from reception through the terraced buildings at Turi Beach to the restaurant and pool area – the timberwork is very impressive.

Return about 2 kilometres to the security post and turn right past the Nongsa ferry terminal and over the nearby bridge. Take the first turn right to wind through the Sei Nongsa kampong. You may want to pause for a drink at one of the local restaurants and check out the beach. When the tide exposes the sands it can be very attractive and is hugely popular with Batam locals at weekends and on holidays. You may need to make a small admission payment to the local community.

As you return to the main road you will pass the very impressive Palm Springs golf complex (LINK to Palm Springs golf entry) and then the Batam View and Purajaya resorts.

(www.batamview.com)   (www.purajayaresort.com)  

Both are worth checking out to see the stonework and gardens of the waterside villas at Batam View and the spectacular timber work interiors of the main reception and restaurant areas of Purajaya. Batam view offers plenty of water sport activities for both guests and day visitors.

Continue a short distance further and you will come to the Tering Bay golf complex (Tering Bay Golf). Tering Bay was originally to be a major residential development but it became a victim of the 1997-98 Asian financial crisis and now you will find acres of paved and kerbed and guttered streets and a handful of large and empty houses. The golf course and clubhouse operate but the associated developments were suspended. If you pause for a drink in the clubhouse you can check out the model showing the spectacular plans for this development that some day may be realized.

Continue on the road you have been following and it will take back to rejoin the main road close to Batu Besar. From there you can return to Nagoya.

Sekupang and Waterfront City

IF YOU travel south from Nagoya you will pass through the suburban area of Tiban and then reach the Sekupang area. This was originally intended to be the administrative hub of Batam but the development of major industrial estates to the north led to a shift of commerce and retailing to Nagoya and the relocation of major Government offices at Batam Centre.

Continue south and you will reach the entry to Waterfront City. This was commenced in the 1990s with the aim of becoming a major resort and residential area. It is now notable for the spectacular extent to which it has failed. There are acres of empty houses in what was intended to be a canal housing development, a striking Batak style building housing a ferry terminal and a large complex of mainly empty shophouses in what was to have been a commercial and retail centre. There is also the steel skeleton of what was to have been a massive indoor snow skiing centre (120 km north of the equator).

Against this there are two successful resort hotels - the Harris and the Holiday Inn:

(www.harris-batam.com)

(www.holidaycity.com/holiday-inn-batam/index.htm)

Both are popular as relatively inexpensive weekend getaways for families from Singapore and as out-of-the-way conference venues. Day visitors are welcome at both. They offer excellent pools and massage centres and a range of resort-style activities, particularly at Harris. These include water skiing, jet skis, sail boarding, go-karting (the track and the cars are somewhat run-down), parasailing, fishing, tennis and the like.

The Harris is associated with a marina and adjoining it and overlooking the water is the Monkey Bar. This open bar built in Bali style is a relaxing place to have a drink and perhaps a meal. There are also a few pleasant bars and food outlets (one excellent local seafood restaurant) on the water frontage of the shop-houses complex.

From here you can look across in one direction to the stilt houses of a nearby kampong extending over the water. Shift your view slightly and you will see the massive arrays of cranes, buildings, ships and structures of the Tanjung Uncang heavy industrial area. The juxtaposition is a metaphor for the past 40 years of Batam development.

Located a short distance from the Waterfront City area is the Batam Hills golf complex which is part of the Acacia Hotel:

(www.acacia-hotel.com/batam/index.html)

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VISITING NEARBY ISLANDS

IF YOU enjoy exploring history and culture then a ferry trip to nearby islands of Bintan or Karimun may be well worthwhile.

Bintan is probably the most interesting. Take a taxi about 40 minutes north of Nagoya to the port of Punggur (about Rp70,000) and then take ferry or speedboat (they seat about 16 and go like the clappers) to Tanjung Pinang, a town of about 250,000 people. The Laguna, not far from the ferry terminal is a recommended hotel to stay.

Tanjung Pinang was once the capital of the powerful Johor Riau Sultanate, a kingdom controlling all of the Riau islands and the Malay Peninsula to Malacca. It rose to prominence from the 16th Century after the Sultan of Malacca took refuge there to escape the Portugese. Today it is the administrative capital of the newly created Province of Kepulauan Riau (Riau Islands), generally referred to as KEPRI.

 

Tanjung Pinang is an example of a traditional old trading centre with a considerable population of Chinese traders (often descended from smugglers). There are many relics of its glory days. On the waterfront not far from the ferry terminal and the main part of town is the 28m high Raja Haji Fisabilillah Struggle Monument commemorating the sea battle of 1784 in which more than 500 Dutch soldiers and marines are said to have been killed.

You can take a Pompong boat from the harbour front and travel about 10 minutes cross the harbour to Penyengat Island. Here you can hire a motorbike rickshaw and take a short tour to view the Sultan Riau Grand Mosque, the graves and tombs of Malay heroes and the former residence of the Sultan:

www.indonesia-tourism.com/riau-archipelago/penyengat-island.html

 

The Northern area of Bintan, known as Lagoi, has been given over to major resort developments (www.bintan-resorts.com). These have been funded mainly from Singapore and target the Singapore, Malaysian, Jakarta and North Asian markets. Recommended if you want a bland and expensive international resort experience and are prepared to pay top rates for the privilege but to be avoided if you want to experience the real Indonesia.

The beaches of the eastern coast of Bintan face the South China Sea and are undeveloped but very beautiful. Well worth a drive.

(wikitravel.org/en/Tanjung_Pinang)

 

Karimun - To visit the island of Karimun take a taxi to the domestic ferry terminal at Sekupang (about Rp60,000 from Nagoya). From there take a ferry to Tanjung Balai (This usually is the first stop – make sure you disembark as the ferry continues on to other islands). Tanjung Balai is also an old trading centre and well worth exploring. There are no taxis – instead take the micro buses that routinely encircle the main part of town. If you are not in hurry you can take a traditional pedal powered becak (rickshaw). You can hire vans and drivers by the hour or day from an area near the ferry terminal - make sure you negotiate.

Karimun is a popular weekend destination for Singaporean and Malaysian men looking for cheap drinking, cheap food and casual sex with girls from brothel villages on the outskirts of town.

Karimun, along with Batam and Bintan, is part of a Special Economic Zone created under an agreement between the Indonesian and Singaporean Governments in 2006. It is expected to experience a major surge of economic growth with the commencement in 2008 of a US$300 million fabrication yard by the giant Italian oil and gas contracting group Saipem.

A recommended Tanjung Balai hotel is the Maximilian. It offers excellent rooms and junior suites at very competitive prices. Avoid the upper floors – the karaoke on the top floor can be very loud in the late evening. There is a pleasant rooftop area  (walk through the karaoke) where you can have a drink and watch the sunset and there are excellent night food markets nearby. (wikitravel.org/en/Karimun)

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TEMPLES AND MONUMENTS

AN ISLAND city that was a mere collection of fishing villages just 30 years ago cannot be expected to boast the museums, monuments and edifices we have come to expect in places with hundreds or thousands of years of history.

But in Batam a MUST SEE is the massive and beautiful Maha Vihara Duta Maitreya Buddhist temple located at Sungai Panas near Batam Centre. The building opened only in 1999 and is still under development but it already ranks as one of the biggest Buddhist temples in South East Asia. It is all the more remarkable for being located in the midst of a largely Muslim population.

The temple is the outcome of heroic efforts, mainly by members of the Batam Chinese community who were inspired by one of their leaders who reportedly says the concept was revealed to him in a series of visions after seeing the temple ruins of Borabodur near Jogjakarta. Buddhists from throughout Indonesia and from some 50 overseas countries contributed funding for the project. Thousands of Buddhists from all over Indonesia and the region now flock to Batam and the temple to visit, pray and study.

The temple is open daily and visitors are welcome. The great halls and huge, richly adorned Buddhas are very impressive. There is also a vegetarian restaurant open to the public.

One of Batam’s strikingly beautiful places of worship is the elegant Masjid Raya Batam (the Great Mosque of Batam) that takes pride of place by the waterfront at Batam Centre. The biggest mosque in Riau Archipelago, it opened in 1999 and has an area of some 75,000 square metres and an internal structure without pillars. It is particularly spectacular when lit at night.

The mosque has became a centre for Moslem religious affairs and study in the region and is an embarkation centre for Muslims from throughout Sumatra making pilgrimages to the Hajj in Mecca. Thousands of pilgrims stay in the buildings on the campus surrounding the mosque and undertake studies and training before flying out of Hang Nadim airport on special charter flights. The mosque is typically filled to overflowing for Friday prayers.

We are unaware of organized tours of Masjid Raya but know from experience that visitors, Muslim or non-Muslim, will be made welcome. It is very important to be properly dressed – long trousers, shirt and shoes.

Some organized tours of Batam also visit Toa Pek Kong Chinese temple in Nagoya and the controversial Dewi Kuong Imra monument to the Buddhist goddess of prosperity at the KTM resort at Tanjung Pinggir near Sekupang. The KTM statue stands 26 metres tall and initially ran into trouble with local authorities because it stood higher than the Garuda Nusantara monument at Batam’s Hang Nadim international airport. The monument had to be moved from its original plinth overlooking the ocean to a depression 200 metres away. If you go to see this monument in the early evening be careful of the monkeys - they can turn nasty.

 

GOODIES RESTAURANT (Smiling Hill)

THE GOODIES Restaurant at Smiling Hill is judged by resident expats and visitors as one of the outstanding restaurants in Batam with an interesting fusion of Western, European, Asian and Indonesian foods (Check menu). The servings are generous, the quality is high and the service is excellent. Prices, even for meals featuring imported ingredients, are very competitive.

The setting is a poolside Bali style complex of jungle timber and palm thatched pavilions with waterfalls, fish ponds, lush gardens, soft lighting and music and flaming torches. Some tables are outdoors set among the gardens and by the water’s edge – magic!

Regardless of its direct association with this site, we have no hesitation in putting Goodies at the TOP of our list of recommended places in Batam to dine and relax.

WESTERN DINING

For Western style dining other than Goodies (Goodies Restaurant), you might wish to try the Bistro in the Nagoya entertainment district. The Bistro is run by a German expat who has a passion for good food and cooking. He travels regularly to Singapore to purchase hard-to-get foods and ingredients and hand carries them back to Batam to be served in the pub-style restaurant. There is a Euro flavor to the menu with classic German dishes featured. Prices are in Singapore dollars and a little on the higher side, perhaps reflecting the cost of imported products. Tax is added but there is no service charge. The food is excellent and superior to Batam’s other western bar-style outlets.

The Teras restaurant at Penwin specializes in Western international style food and has developed a steady following. A large part of its charm is a terrace garden outdoor dining area. The food is unexceptional but prices are reasonable. Tax and service charge is added.

If you fancy curries then the Hot Spot bar in Nagoya is the place to go. The Hot Spot features a range of the classic hot and spicy and milder curries that have become so popular in the UK. The extensive menu also features gourmet pizzas along with Western and Indonesian snacks and dishes.

B & Ks located on the second floor of the Planet Holiday Hotel offers international Western-style food with steaks a specialty. Prices are on the high end with tax and service charge added. The original Western founders of this restaurant have both moved on. The kitchen is now run by the staff they trained.

PUB GRUB

Many of the Bule (Western) oriented bars in the Nagoya entertainment district offer more than adequate snack and western style food, including an all-day Western breakfast for holiday travellers inclined to sleep late and in need of a fix of real bacon. Menus typically include steaks, chops, fish and chips, stews, casseroles, roasts and a few Indonesian dishes. Popular restaurant/bars include Lusy’s Oarhouse, The Red Cock, Wallabies and The New Place.

PUJASERAS

These are outdoor food courts in the Malaysian tradition with a number of warungs (small stall-like kitchens) serving meals to tables in an open air communal dining area. It is quite in order to select some items from one warung's menu and some more from another. 

Usually there is also a bar serving soft drinks and beer, and "beer girls" who wear the livery of the various beer companies. It is quite normal then for a group of you at a table to order a Tiger beer from the Tiger girl, Bintangs from the Bintang girl, and a Carlsbergs from the Carlsberg girl. Hardly efficient, but all part of the charm of the pujasera experience. Often, though not always, the beer girl from one company will happily bring you another brand because she has an arrangement to share the commission with her “sisters”.

Toilets are usually basic - squat pans and urinals only and generally a bit smelly. Toilet paper is conspicuous by its absence. There are hand wash basins in the toilet areas and at convenient locations around the dining area.

The pujaseras offer some of the best quality and best value authentic Indonesian/Chinese food available. The food is cheap and beer is about half the price of the bars - in fact often matching supermarket prices.

Recommended pujasera in and around Nagoya include Harbour Bay, Windsor, A1 and the Nagoya Food Court. Taxi drivers will know them all. We encourage you to check them out for yourself, preferably with a group of friends. You will enjoy the experience.

KALONG RESTAURANTS

These are traditional waterfront seafood restaurants built on stilts and extending out over the sea. Typically there are pens in the water and/or tanks around the restaurant filled with live fish, prawns, crabs, shellfish, lobsters and other seafood. You choose the items you would like and have the chefs prepare them for you.

The food is always fresh, usually excellent and generally, by Western standards, very cheap. The furniture and fittings can sometimes be basic but the surroundings are invariably magnificent.

Recommended kalongs include the Rezeki restaurant at Batu Besar (past the aiport about 40 minutes north of Nagoya by taxi), the Sunset restaurant at the KLM resort near Sekupang and several restaurants on the waterways off the Barelang Highway (Barelang Highway Tour).

One of the biggest kalongs is the Golden Prawn at Bengkong about four kilometres from the heart of Nagoya. This is very big and the setting is superb. Every taxi driver you encounter will want to take you there (mainly because of the arrangements the owners have made to pay them substantial commissions). Be cautious – the food can be inconsistent, the service ordinary and the prices (perhaps reflecting the commissions) relatively expensive. You also may find yourself drowned out by loud karaoke performers or sharing the venue with a function.

LOCAL RESTAURANTS

There are many excellent local restaurants in and around Nagoya and Batam Centre with a wide variety of Indonesian and Chinese Indonesian specialties. The restaurants mentioned below are only a few of many where you will find excellent food at cheap prices.

Nasi Padang is one of the favourite cuisines of Indonesians everywhere. Some 15 or 20 pre-prepared dishes ranging from beef rendang and an array of curries to fried chicken, catfish, cows brains, potato cakes and local vegetables are placed on your table together with steamed rice and a selection of sambals. You eat whatever takes your fancy and the bill will be made up according to what you choose. A highly recommended nasi Padang restaurant is Putih Bungsu near the Puri Garden Hotel. It has air-conditioned upstairs and downstairs dining and serves takeaways on banana leaves wrapped in grease-proof brown paper packages held with rubber bands. Traditionally you eat Nasi Padang with your fingers but you will be given forks and spoons and plates if you dine in.

With its multitude of islands, Indonesia has wonderful seafood. Highly recommended local style seafood restaurants are the two Yong Kee – Seafood Istemiwa (special) outlets in Nagoya and Batam Centre. They offer a range of Chinese Indonesian style dishes but their specialty is meal-sized seafood soups served with steamed rice. A stellar dish is Sop Kepala Ikan Campur (fish head soup with other seafood) - it is superb. While there try the freshly made fruit juices – a specialty is sweetened avocado juice with chocolate – weird but wonderful.

If you wish to sample Javanese food then try Resto Kederi at Batam Centre. This is a big and long established restaurant with an extensive menu of inexpensive classic Indonesian dishes (plus some Western-style fare if a member of your party is unadventurous). Resto Kederi has a big following in the Indonesian community, a testament to its quality.

For Sundanese style food (West Java) try the Batam Kuring restaurant near the Swiss Belotel in Jodoh or the Kelapa Gading near the Merlin hotel at Pelita. The Batam Kuring has dining tables in a garden setting with wait staff dressed in traditional costumes. The Kelapa Gading has been constructed of timber and woven bamboo in a traditional style. You may need an Indonesian speaker with you to help in understanding the dishes and in ordering – most staff speak no English. Prices are at the higher end for local food and taxes and service charge will be added.

If you keep your eyes open you will spot small “hole-in-the-wall” establishments with pre-cooked ducks, chickens and pork hanging in the window in Chinese style. These small café-style outlets cater for the non-Muslim population, serving duck, chicken or pork rice to eat in or take away. There is a choice of either roast or barbecue pork and the rice is usually prepared in stock, adding extra flavour. The food is delicious and cheap but the portions are typically small – you may want to pay extra for a double helping of the meat.

ETHNIC RESTAURANTS

For outstanding Chinese food try the Fisherman Restaurant at Batam Centre. It is part of a group which also has a restaurant of the same name in Jakarta. A specialty is Peking or Roast duck but there is a full menu of other favourite Chinese dishes, some with a slight local twist. The quality of the food is up with the best of international Chinese cuisine, the service is excellent, the restaurant is very comfortably appointed (with banquet rooms for private parties) and prices are very reasonable. The same owners have a smaller restaurant with a less comprehensive menu at Nagoya Hill shopping mall called the Grand Duck.

If you fancy Japanese then you may wish to try the Kazu restaurant towards off Jalan Radan Patah to the south of Nagoya (near the Pizza Hut and the Mercure Hotel), the Tenkyu on the Upper floor of the Panorama Regency Hotel (features a sushi counter and teppanyaki grill and offers fine dining) or the Kurino-ya Restaurant in the Harmoni Hotel.

For Korean try the Arirang Korean and Japanese Restaurant restaurant on the second floor of the Planet Holiday Hotel (it is excellent) or the Sarang Bang Restaurant and in the Harmoni Hotel.

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BARELANG Bridge 1 - beneath it the hand-crafted boats that traditionally linked the islands

KAMPUNG kids at Barelang. Behind their coastal community built on stilts over the water

TRADITIONAL craft like these move tonnes of goods around Indonesia - these vessels at Barelang are unloading lumber

THIS traditional fishing kampung is close to Barelang Bridge 1. Operators of traditional boats from the jetty below the northern bridge approach will take you there for about 75,000 rupiah and the residents will make you welcome

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COLOURFUL Buddhist icons at Tanjung Pinang on the island of Bintan. This old regional capital and trading centre has many sites of interest.

SCHOOL BUS Karimun style. These pedal rickshaws (becaks) are still a popular mode of transport in Tanjung Balai, Karimun’s main town.

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ABOARD the fast ferry to Karimun. Batam and nearby Riau Islands are linked by magnificent waterways.

FERRY terminal at Tanjung Balai, Karimun. Western visitors to Karimun must transit via Batam as there are no Visa on Arrival facilities at Karimun.

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DELUXE room at Maximilian Hotel in Tanjung Baloi, Karimun. This hotel is inexpensive and good. Avoid rooms on higher floors - the disco on the roof level is LOUD!

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PART of jetty area at Nongsa Point Marina - a pleasant place to enjoy a drink or a meal.

BEACH at Nongsa Point Marina. The resort faces the Singapore Strait. Batam is surrounded by inland waterways, meaning the beaches are limited and no surf.

POOL area at Nongsa Point Village located near Turi Beach and Nongsa Point Marina. The village provides short and long stay housing by the beach.

ENTREPRENEURIAL spirit limps on - this Las Vegas Lounge and Bar Garden is to be found at Waterfront City in Batam’s south. It probably looks better at night!

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THE SPECTACULAR Masjid Raya Batam (Great Mosque of Batam) is located at Batam Centre and is the biggest mosque in Riau

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THIS Dewi Kawn Im statue is located at the KTM resort near Sekupang and stands some 23 metres tall.

COLOURFUL Buddhist temple at Tanjung Balai on the island of Karimun. Visitors are welcome (always leave a small donation).

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NO NOT a cruise ship that forgot to stop but rather the 4-star Pacific Palace Hotel that opened in Batam in 2008. Voyage to nowhere in luxury!

ORNATE lobby area of the Planet Holiday Hotel. The hotel some 17 floors with about 300 rooms.

GOLDEN View Hotel - one of four new major hotels which opened in Batam in 2008.

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KALONG restaurants extending over the water on stilts and specialising in delicious fresh seafoods are a popular part of dining in Batam. This is the Rezeki Restaurant at Batu Besar.

BATAM is noted for its Malaysian-style open air food markets (Pujaseras) where you can enjoy the best of local dishes from an array of vendors and enjoy beers and juices.

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A RUSH of modern new shopping centres has opened in Batam over the period since about 2005. This is an entry to the big Nagoya Hill Centre.

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BUSY promenade area within the Nagoya Hill Centre which has proved to be one of Batam’s most popular shopping outlets.

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THE MEGAMALL at Batam Centre. The developers commenced a second stage immediately the first stage was completed. The centre is located across the street from Batam Centre ferry terminal and attracts shoppers from Singapore looking for bargains.

MODERN copy shop. Computer generated posters, banners, colour copying and promotional items like T-shirts, caps, patches and tags are very inexpensive in Batam and the operators are generally quite skilled. Business visitors often have promotional materials made in Batam to take home with them.

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THE LOCAL Indonesian name for our area is Bukit Senyum which means Smile Hill - the Smiling Hill team takes this happy sentiment to heart.

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YONG KEE  Seafood Istimewa  (special seafood) restaurant  in  Nagoya is highly recommended. Their specialty is seafood soups, including an outstanding Fish Head Soup. There are other Yong Kee outlets around Batam.

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BATAM  is a dynamic and rapidly growing city - still a rough and ready mix of modern and “Third World” but with a sophistication that often will surprise.

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ASIAN-STYLE shophouses are the common form of development in Batam (retail and commercial on ground floor with living quarters or more commercial spaces upstairs). This is part of a new block at Harbour Bay with first tenants moving in during 2009.

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THIS CENTRAL pedestrian walkway is part of the Harbour Bay development shown above.

STREET SCENE in Nagoya, Batam’s main central business district. Street trees and gardens emerging, clean unbroken pavement and an absence of hawker stands - hugely different to just a few short years ago.

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PAST PRESERVED - these fruit stalls occupy much of the median strip of one of Nagoya’s main streets. They are a colourful and popular part of the local scene.

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SUBURBIA - Wide avenue and rows of shophouses near Sungai Panas. This is a section of the main throughfare linking Nagoya and Batam Centre.

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SMILING HILL pool by day. The main pool is 20 metres by 10 metres (excellent for laps) and there is also a childrens’ wading pool and a jacuzzi

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POOL COMPLEX by night. - this is the venue for poolside dining and weddings and parties at our Goodies Restaurant.

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A BALI style pavilion houses the main dining area of Goodies Restaurant. The attractive palm thatching and natural timbers are complemented by a water feature and decorative pool filled with fish and water plants.

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MEN behaving ... happily. The pool and jacuzzi are a great place to relax and shoot the breeze, especially on a lazy Sunday. The days are warm all year round and the water temperature is always pleasant.

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MEALS at Goodies come in man-sized portions and feature fresh ingredients and attractive  presentation.

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YOUNGSTERS from the local Indonesian community enjoy the Smiling Hill Pool complex after school on many weekdays. These children would never have such an opportunity in their home districts or back in the kampung - there are no public swimming venues in regional Indonesia.

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RESIDENTS and visitors enjoy relaxing at the poolside Goodies Bar. This is “Information Central” for finding out where to go and what to do in Batam (and what not to do) and is the venue for BIG screen live presentations of major international sports events via the satellite TV services.

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KELAPA GADING restaurant at Pelita (near Nagoya) is built in traditional Javanese style and features Sundanese food from West Java - excellent.

FACADE of the Planet Holiday Hotel, located in Jodoh on the edge of the main Batam CBD.

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LOOKING from the 9th tee at the Southlinks Golf Course. This championship course is very close to the main business district with views across the Strait to Singapore.

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UP MARKET resorts and golf courses aimed mainly at the Singapore leisure market are part of the Batam scene. This free-form pool is at the Nongsa Point Marina resort, one of several hotel/residential resorts located in the north-east of the island.

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Waterfront Villas at at the Nongsa Point Marina resort. The Nongsa resort area is about 40 minutes from Batam’s main business and entertainment districts.

Timber chalets set in tropical gardens are a feature of the Batam View resort complex at Nongsa. The resort has views over Tering Bay to Batam Centre and Singapore.

Some of the Batam View chalets extend over the water. At high tide lap back to the retaining wall.

The spectacular Turi Beach Resort looks over the Strait to southern Malaysia. It is crafted in Bali style with timber, ratan cane, natural thatching and stone paved pathways.

The relaxing Turi Beach Resort pool is set amongst coconut palms and gardens. Nearby is an island bar reached from the shore by a jetty.

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MOTORBIKE taxis (ojeks) are an inexpensive, common and popular mode of transport in Batam. Groups of Ojek riders gather and wait at locations around the downtownand suburbs. Clap your hands and they will come, bringing a passenger helmet for you.

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STREET MARKET vendor. Streets in a section of the Nagoya main business district are filled with vendors from the pre-dawn hours selling all kinds of produce until about 9am. It’s colourful and frenetic and well worth an early morning stroll to see it.

THESE ladies are earning some extra money by trimming and peeling garlic at the markets. Indonesians like to shop for fresh produce supplies daily. Fish, seafood and meats are sold in large “wet” markets.

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ISLAND of contrasts - a quick snack of noodles, a little vegetable and an egg. Street vendors circulate throughout residential areas selling dishes like this. At night roadside food stalls appear along most busy streets - and the local food offered is usually excellent.

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INTERNET in the park. These wireless Hot Spots are located at Batam Centre. ADSL and wireless Internet connections are widely available in Batam. Speeds are well below Western broadband connections but generally are adequate. Internet cafes are popular. Smiling Hill offers a FREE wireless Hot Spot service.

SIDEWALK vendor relying on softdrink sales to earn daily rice for him and his family

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IT’S A LITTLE LIKE a party every night during the fasting month of Ramadhan. The followers of the Muslim faith do not eat or drink from early dawn but from 15 minutes after Sundown the market areas and sections of the streets are filled with stalls offering fruits, special foods and cakes prepared especially for the occasion. The food markets (pujaseras) are busy and many people invite friends to their homes to offer hospitality. Many well-to-do people hire restaurants or hotels to cater for friends, relatives and business associates at special Iftaar (breakfast) receptions.

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MODERN FAST ferries link Batam with Singapore and take about an hour for the 20 km crossing. This Wavemaster (Berlian) ferry sails from the Harbour Bay Terminal. Wavemaster and Harbour Bay are the recommended service for visitors unless they have a special reason for taking connections to other Ports. The crossing to Harbour is one of the fastest and the terminal is on the edge of the main business and entertainment district.

Wavemaster Services Timetable

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FUTURISTIC ferry terminal at Batam Centre pictured from the nearby Mega Mall shopping Centre. There are frequent connections from Batam Centre to Singapore and Jahore Baru in Malaysia. This terminal best suits residents of Batam’s northern suburbs. There are con nections from Singapore to other ferry terminals at Waterfront City, Sekupang and Sei Nongsa. Sekupang is also the port for ferries providing services to nearby islands to the west and south of Batam like Karimun and Kundur and to the Ports at Dumai and Pakenbaru in Sumatra.

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INTERIOR of speedboat ferry providing connections from the Port of Punggur on the north east of Batam to ports on the nearby island of Bintan, mainly to Tanjung Pinang. They are very fast and almost guarantee you will get to meet the locals up close and personal. There are also regular ferries but the journey takes a little longer.

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JUST COULDN’T resist recording these relaxing porters at Karimun ferry terminal - perhaps we could say they were waiting for their ship to come in.

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FAMILY wheels Indonesian style - yes Mum, Dad and three kids on a 125cc motor scooter. It is not an uncommon sight.

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A SECTION of the massive Maha Vihara Duta Maitreya Buungai Panas near Batam Centre. Visitors are welcome and this is a Batam landmark well worth seeing.

THEY APPEAR in car parks and along the roadsides as if by magic in the balmy evenings - structures of metal or wood and canvas with plastic chairs and tables and lit by storm lamps. These “night” restaurants offer local seafood and chicken dishes.

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THE BANNERS are a screen and promote the specialities of the evening parking lot and roadside food vendors - in this case crab, squid, prawns, catfish and varieties of popular local fish.

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COLOURFUL car park “night” restaurant gets ready for the evening trade near the Nagoya Hill Shopping Centre.

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SECTION of a typically big crowd at the A1 Pujasera. Many Westerners spend long stays in Batam without ever discovering the excellent low-priced food at these open-air food outlets.

JUST some of the array of competing stallholders offering their wares at the A1 Pujasera

ALL SET for a big night of trading. The boat is full of iced-down fish and seafood and the plate next to it is a grill over glowing charcoal. To the right a canister of rice and prepped fresh local vegetables. The main dish is “Ikan bakar” - barbecued fish basted with sweet soy sauce and it is delicious.

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LUSY’S located in the Nagoya Entertainment District is one of the landmark bule (Westerner) bars of Batam. (It is spelled with “s” because there is no soft “c” in Indonesian). Upstairs is the PP Banana Go-Go Bar.

PART of the main entertainment and bar district catering for Westerners by day. Most bars open from about 5pm on weekdays but those with restaurant service open earlier.

MORE of the bar and restaurant district. There are some 25 bars and restaurant bars in this area plus fast food outlets, specialty restaurants, massage centres, salons, hotels and karaokes.

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ANOTHER section of the bar and entertainment district at night - here the Hard Chile, the Hot Spot, the Asylum and the Java Bar. Around the corner to Wallabies.

NOT JUST a mean pool player but also an Assistant Manager at the Bar Fly Bar - currently one of Batam’s most popular Expat bars.

ENJOYING a laugh at the Bar Fly.

STAFFER and customer ham it up for the camera at the popular Hot Spot bar. The eclectic Hot Spot specialises in pizzas, curries and Aussie meat pies.

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THE SINAR BULAN (Shining Moon) hotel is typical of many small budget hotels scattered around the Batam business district. These cater mainly for the big inflow of Singaporeans and Malaysians who travel to Batam at weekends for a relatively inexpensive weekend of bars, karaokes, discos, pujasera dining and Indonesian girls.

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A MASSAGE should be high on your list of priorities when you visit Batam. There are many establishments offering traditional and Thai massage, aromatherapy and foot reflexology. They are inexpensive and professional. This is the Beauty Moon Massage and Salon in Nagoya.

PADDY MASSAGE is large and beautifully appointed massage centre which opened in Harbour Bay in 2009.

THE PICTURESQUE 6th hole on the Palm course at Palm Springs, Nongsa. This highly rated course offers 27 holes.

PLAYING the 5th hole at the popular Batam Hills course. Golf on quality courses is inexpensive in Batam.

THIS is the 9th green at the Indah Puri course near Sekupang. This spectacular course is ringed by water and boasts a beautiful traditional style clubhouse.

LOOKING down the 10th at Tering Bay. This beautiful course overlooking Singapore was designed by Greg Norman.

Golf course pictures courtesy of:

www.paradisegolfandpleasure.co.uk

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THE ASYLUM is one of Batam’s newer Western bars and is developing a strong following.

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EXPATS relaxing at the Asylum Bar. Many Batam bars are quite small, occupying the lower floor of a singe shophouse.

THIS NEW waterfront boardwalk area at Harbour Bay is transformed at night (below) with customers of a new bar and restaurant strip enjoying the magnificent setting. This area is certain to emerge as popular dining and entertainment area over coming years.

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KARAOKE bars are a big part of the Batam nightlife scene and are very popular with Singaporean and other Asian visitors and well-to-do locals. This Dynasty (one of three establishments bearing this name) is located near the Centrepoint shopping centre in Nagoya. Most karaoke bars and some massage parlours offer hostesses and working girls along with the drinks songs.

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MANY indonesians are talented musicians and love music and performing. Live bands are still a feature of entertainment at many local bars and clubs. This rock group from Jakarta was playing at Steps Nightclub and Bar in the Nagoya entertainment area.

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The Batak people from North Sumatra are noted for their musicianship and harmony singing. This acoustic group was the feature band at Petros restaurant and bar at Harbour Bay. Between sets they become strolling musicians serenading diners along the waterfront boardwalk outside.